Sailing over the banks of Newfoundland, we passed by several islands of ice, which came floating down from the river St. Lawrence.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 67
This day we entered the noble bay of St. Lawrence, between Cape de Retz, on the island of Newfoundland and Cape Breton, (our fleet, all in sight,) and after doubling Cape Rosieres, we entered the river, which is in this place about ninety miles in breadth; here the sea was very boisterous. On the south side lies the bay of Gaspie. Below this bay is a steep rock, which is called the Bored Island, from an opening in its middle, through which a ship may pass with her sails up. At a league's distance from the Bored Island, lies the island Bonaventure; and at a league's distance from that, the Island Miscon, which has an excellent harbour, and is eight leagues in circumference. A spring of fresh water spouts up to a considerable height in the offing, not far from this island.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 67
Early this morning the Island Anticosti presented itself to our sight, the current setting strongly in upon it, rendered our navigation extremely dangerous, especially as the island is lined with breakers. This island is narrow, and lies in the middle of the river, it extends about forty leagues from N. E. to S. W. Our French pilot represented it as absolutely good for nothing; its coasts, however, are said to be well stored with fish.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 68
This evening after passing the island of Anticosti, our navigation became more tolerable, but still the fleet used great precaution.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 68
The weather remarkably cold this day, but the wind fair, which soon brought us in sight of the Mounts Notre Dame and Lewis; here we saw for the first time, a number of neat French plantations. In the evening we sailed by Trinity Point, which we endeavoured to avoid with great care, and before dark we had a view of the Paps of Montani, so called from the appearance of the mountain, situated about two leagues from the shore. The land in this neighbourhood was representnd to be not only unprofitable, but frightful, being covered with rocks, sands, and impenetrable thickets. On the other side the river, lies the shoal of Maniconague, which is the most dangerons in this river.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 68
This day we sailed by the island of Caudres, which appeared to be very well inhabited and cultivated; churches, crucifixes, and images, were now to be seen almost every where: here the passage of the river is dangerous without a fair wind, in particular there is a whirlpool, which we carefully guarded against. Next appeared in our view, the Bay of St. Paul, where the plantations on the north shore begin; they consist of valuable woods of pine trees, among which are red pines, which are esteemed very beautiful. The village of St. Paul's is situated in a vale, and has a very romantic appearance from the river.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, p. 69
Early this morning we had a view of a very high promontory, which we were informed terminates a chain of mountains, that reach near five hundred leagues to the westward. This promontory is called Cape Torment. A number of islands now presented themselves to our view, among which is that of Orleans, which forms a most beautiful prospect, a clear open country, with villages, and churches innumerable, and being all whitewashed on the outside, gave them a neat, elegant appearance, from our ships. This island is about fourteen leagues in circumference; it produces excellent wheat and fine fruits, and forms two channels, of which the south is the most navigable. Here the water becomes fit to drink; for it is brackish at Cape Torment, though it is an hundred and ten leagues from the sea.
From the island of Orleans the river grows so narrow, that before Quebec it is not a mile over. The Point Levy, which juts out beyond the isle of Orleans, entirely hides the south channel of the river, as the Isle of Orleans does that on the north; so that from thence to the port of Quebec appears like a large bason, or bay, land locked on all sides, and capable of containing one hundred ships of the line, at four hundred and twenty miles distance from the sea.
In the river St. Lawrence, are sea wolves, sea cows, porpoises, the chaourasou, turtles, lobsters, sea plaise, salmon, trouts, with a variety of other fish. The sea wolf, so called from its howling, is an amphibious creature; his head resembles that of a dog; he has four very short legs, of which the fore ones have nails, but the hind ones terminate in fins. The largest are said to weigh two thousand pounds, and are of different colours. Their flesh is good eating, but the profit of it lies in its oil, which is proper for burning, and currying leather. Their skins make excellent covering for trunks, and though not so fine as morocco leather, they preserve their freshness better, and are less liable to crack. The shoes and boots made of these skins do not admit water, and when properly tanned make excellent and lasting covers for seats. The sea cow, is larger than the sea wolf, but resembles it in figure. It is as white as snow, and has two teeth of the thickness and length of a man's arm, that, when grown, look like horns, and are very fine ivory, as well as its other teeth. It seldom happens that they are caught in the water, but they are taken on shore by the following stratagem. The inhabitants of Arcadia, tie a bull to a stake, fixt on the shore, in the depth of about two feet water; they then beat, and otherwise torment him, by twisting his tail, until they make him roar; which as soon as these animals hear, they make towards the shore, and when they get into shallow water, they crawl to the bull, and are taken with little difficulty. The Arcadians as well as the Indians eat some parts of this animal, and what they dislike they boil with its fat, to an oily or greasy substance, with which they save or cure the skins of other animals for leather.
Some of the porpoises of the river St. Lawrence, are said to yield a hogshead of oil, and of their skins made waistcoats, which are exceeding strong, and musket proof.
The chaourasou is an armed fish, resembling a pike; but is covered with scales, that are proof against a dagger; some of them are above five feet long, and about the thickness of a man's thigh: this fish is said even to catch and devour birds; in order to which, he conceals himself among the canes, or reeds, in such a manner, that nothing is to be seen besides his weapon, which he holds, raised perpendicularly above the surface of the water: the birds which come to take rest, imagining the weapon to be only a withered reed, make no scruple of perching upon it; but they are no sooner alighted, than the fish opens his throat, and so suddenly makes at his prey, that it rarely escapes.
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, pp. 69-71
Our fleet now arrived at Quebec, which is the capital of the province of Canada, and an episcopal see. It is situated at the confluence of the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, or the little river. It is built on a rock, partly of marble, and partly of slate. The haven which lies opposite the town, is safe and commodious, and about five fathom deep. Before the city was taken by our troops, in the year 1759, it is said to have made a very fine appearance. Among the principal edifices, were the episcopal palace; the cathedral; the fort or citadel, which was the residence of the Governor; the house and church of the Recollets; the church of the Ursuline nuns, in which is the tomb of Monsieur Montcalm, who commanded the French, and was killed at the battle of Quebec, in which also fell that young hero, Wolfe, who commanded the English; the sumptuous college of Jesuits; the intendant's house, the king's magazines, &c. &c.
* To this house the French general, Marquis Montcalm was carried after he was wounded, at the taking of Quebec, in the year 1759. It is said that when his wound was dressed, and he settled in bed, the surgeons who attended him were desired to acquaint him ingeniously with their sentiments of him, and being told that his wound was mortal, he calmly replied, “So I am glad of it." His excellency then demanded, "whether he could survive it long, and how long?" He was told "about twelve hours, or perhaps less." much the better," rejoined the general; "I am happy I shall not live to see the surrender of Quebec." He then ordered his secretary into the room, to settle his private affairs, which as soon as they were dispatched, he dismissed him. He was visited by Monsieur de Ramsey, the French king's lieutenant, and by other principal officers, who desired to receive his excellency's commands, with the farther measures to be pursued for the defence of Quebec. To this, the Marquis made the following answer; "I'll neither give orders, nor interfere any farther: I have much business that must be attended to, of greater moment than your ruined garrison, and this wretched country: my time is very short, therefore pray leave me; I wish you all comfort, and to be happily extricated from your present perplexities. He then called for his chaplain, who with the bishop of the colony, remained with him till he expired. Some time before this great man departed, he paid the British army this compliment. "Since it was my misfortune to be discomfited and mortally wounded, it is a great consolation to me to be vanquished by so brave and generous an army; if I could survive this wound, I would engage to beat three times the number of such forces as I commanded this morning, with a third of their number of British troops."
SOURCE: Roger Lamb, An Original and Authentic Journal of Occurrences During the Late American War, from its Commencement to the Year 1783, pp. 71-2
