Went to Sir John
Fielding's office, Bowstreet— examination of prisoners for robberies, assaults,
etc. Не is a venerable gentleman and blind (as justice is represented); his
queries manifested a mild deportment, ready apprehension and great penetration.
Visited Hampton Court and gardens, which are exceedingly beautiful, although
deserted by the royal family. Here are chairs of state with rich canopies,
tapestry in gold and silver grounds, containing Scripture and ancient stories
of Greece and Rome—adorned also with reigning beauties of the court of Charles
II. of the founders of the different orders of monks, friars, nuns, etc., of
former kings, queens, etc.; Madonnas, the Supper, etc. The ceilings in high
colouring and fine preservation, by Verrio, were as pleasing to me as any part
of the ornaments, as they referred to incidents in Charles II.d's story. This
palace consists of several squares mostly old, and in same state (decay of time
excepted) as in Henry VIIIth's time, when by the envy of the courtiers Cardinal
Wolsey (who built it for his own use) was obliged to present it to the king.
The front on the garden facing the river is magnificent and in good repair.
Thence to Windsor—St.
George's chapel in excellent repair. Here are deposited the bodies of Henry
VIII. and one of his queens, and Charles I. in the midst of the choir. In the
side aisles are funeral monuments of former kings, of which I recollect Edward
IV. and VI.; some ancient nobility, and many canons of the Roman church, with
their images in sacerdotal garments cut in brass, let into flat grave-stones on
the floor; stalls for the knights of the garter; the choir decorated with
carvings, and the windows filled with oil paintings of Scripture stories. We
then ascended the royal apartments in the castle, consisting as at Hampton
Court of an armory, the walls being covered with pikes, halberds, matchlocks,
small arms, etc., disposed in a variety of figures. Over the mantelpiece a fine
full length of George Prince of Denmark (husband of Queen Anne) on horseback; the
horse seemed alive. The other rooms hung in rich tapestry on gold and other
grounds, with paintings, originals and copies of the best masters. In Queen
Anne's china-closet were wooden sconces gilt, on which are set china porcelain
jars of various shapes up to the ceiling. In a small apartment is to be seen a
table fastened to the wall, whereon is a little flag of white satin, with
the banner of France worked into it, fastened by silver clasps to a slender
reed of black ebony capped with silver, which the Duke of Marlborough is
obliged to present, and lay on that spot on the 2d of August annually, before
twelve o'clock at midday, on forfeiture of his palace of Blenheim and the manor
belonging to it; this being the tenure by which he holds them, agreeably to act
of parliament. From the terrace we saw almost under feet Eton college, another
noble monument of Gothic architecture. In a square stands a brazen statue of
Henry VI., the founder in royal robes.
Visited Welbore
Ellis's seat at Twickenham, formerly Pope's; the grotto, being
arches under the house about a man's height, (admitting a prospect into the
longest shady contemplative walk, five feet wide, in the garden,) filled with
small flint-stones, Bristol and other kinds in mortar, a few pieces of glass on
the top and sides : two or three niches filled with the busts of Pope and
others;-there is also in a cross alley a statue of Terence, and in an addition
(made by Mr. Stanhope, late owner,) over the centre of an arch, is a niche
filled with a bust of Pope, and underneath are the following lines:
"The humble roof; the garden's scanty line,
Ill spoke the genius of a bard divine;
But fancy now displays a fairer scope,
And Stanhope's plans unfold the soul of Pope."
Mr. Stanhope's
addition is by far the most elegant part, wherein are many foreign trees, such
as the cedar of Lebanon, weeping willows, etc.; also a green-house filled with
flowers, plants and fruits. In a retired part of the grounds stands a plain
obelisk, eighteen feet high, dedicated by Pope to his mother, with the
following inscription :
"АH EDITHA!
MATRUM OPTIMA,
MULIERUM AMANTISSIMA,
VALE!"*
_______________
* "Alas!
Editha, best of Mothers, most affectionate of Women, Farewell!"
SOURCE: George
Atkinson Ward, Journal and Letters of the Late Samuel Curwen, Judge of
Admiralty, etc., An American Refugee in England from 1775 to 1784, pp. 36-7
